Shchugor (Shchugyr, Schuger, in the upper reaches Sakurya) - a river in the Komi Republic, the right tributary of the Pechora.

Length - 300 km, basin area - 9660 km². The sources are on the western slope of the Northern Urals. The river is fed by rain and snow. Average annual water consumption - 252 m³ / sec. Freezing up from late October to early June. Shchugor is a salmon spawning ground.

Shchugor all its way flows through the territory of the Yugyd Va National Park. The river originates in one of the most remote places, in the region of the "pole of relative inaccessibility" of the Northern Urals. The source is located at an altitude of over 750 meters above sea level, between the peaks of the Molydiz, Akvalsupnol and Paryaur mountains. For the first 100 km, Shchugor flows almost strictly to the north, along a valley bounded by the meridional ridges of Yany-Yankech, Khosaner and Summakhner from the east, and the Tuytymneer, Telpossky and Uuta ridges from the west. In the area of \u200b\u200bTelposiz Mountain, Shchugor follows the conditional border between the Northern and Subpolar Urals. Here it turns to the west and crosses the western ridges of the Ural Mountains, breaking through between Telposiz and the southern slopes of the Isseledovatel ridge. Further, the Shchugor crosses the Parma region, and flows into the Pechora near the village of Ust-Shchugor.

Shchugor is distinguished by exceptional purity and transparency of water. The river is shallow almost along its entire length, abounds in rifts, there are rapids. There are several interesting geological monuments on Shchugor: Ovin-stone, Upper, Middle and Lower Gates.

The Shchugor originates from springs in the very heart of the Northern Urals, flows briskly between the ridges along the valley to the north, and then goes west, along the Pripechorskaya lowland and flows into the Pechora. The most picturesque places on Shchugor begin after the confluence of the river. Telpos, when the first high cliffs appear. 20 km below Telpos, Shchugor takes the Sedya River on the left, enters the Parma region. After 7 km, on the left bank, you can see the remains of the Gerd-Yu settlement, opposite the picturesque Gerd-Yu rock. The river is 100 m wide here.

In the Parma region (110 km), the Shchugor has the character of a mountain river. Deep long stretches alternate with rifts and rapids. At 30 km of the way there is a wide stretch, below which there is a strong roll - a shivera Narrow mouth. Its length is 2 km. Subdivided into Upper, Middle and Lower. The most stormy is Sredny near Shelyasor rock.

42 km below the mouth of the Telpos, the Shchugor receives a large right tributary - the Small Patok, from where one of the most beautiful sections of the river begins. Behind on the horizon are the silhouettes of the Jurassic with the bulk of Telposiz. A river goes ahead, bordered by coastal forests. This canyon-like section of the river valley. Shchugor, which is a complex geological natural monument federal significance, is subject to protection. The rocky sides of the canyon are composed of Carboniferous deposits. The upper part of the section is represented by massive reef limestones of the Gzhelian stage with a rich complex of fossil brachiopods. At the left bank outlet, there is a contact between Carboniferous limestones and Permian terrigenous deposits. In the right-bank part of the canyon, there are interesting forms of weathering: pillars, cones, caves, niches, bas-reliefs. Below the Small Treacle, the Shchugor narrows, forming Upper gate. This is one of the most beautiful places on the territory national park.

2 km below the gate - the Krivoy roll - a steep drain with a complex fairway between the two islands. Below Krivoy stream Red. Zyryan - roll before Middle Gate (the most spectacular). From the Upper Gate to the Middle 9 km. In the rocks of the Srednye Vorota, the largest cave is Sher-kyrta. Its length is 100 m, the height of one of the grottoes is 6 m. The rocks of the Vorot rise up to 100 m. Upon leaving the Vorot, the left bank moves far away, but the right one rises and exposes Permian thin-bedded sandstones and shales.

9 km below the Gate, Shchugor receives Bolshoi Patok, in front of which there is a violent unsafe rapids with high standing ramparts. At the mouth of the Big Patok there is an island, which is bypassed along the left channel. The width of the river here is 180-200 m. There are many small places... After 2.5-3 hours the channel branches into 2 channels, forming an island. 24 km below the mouth of the Big Patok is the village of Michabechevnik. It is 32 km from Ust-Shchugor. On this section of the river there are dangerous rifts and very picturesque Lower Gate... There are many fossil shells in their beds, 7 caves. The channel width here is up to 300 m, there are many shallows. Several islands appear, but they disappear too. The valley becomes wide, and in a few hours the current carries out to Pechora. On the left bank of the Pechora, 2 km below the mouth of the Shchugor, there is the village of Ust-Shchugor.

21 july

18.10 the bus departed from the bus station in Syktyvkar. In the trunk there are two boats and two huge backpacks and a bag of tents. We are going Syktyvkar - Ukhta. We sleep. We read. We sleep. Stop at Emva. I haven’t stayed here for a long time. The stop is not near the railway station, as before, but somewhere in the city. There is no toilet nearby, no shop, but there is a cafe with beer. There is no place to wait for people either. The parking lot is 30 minutes, and people just stand on the sidelines.

Let's go further. We sleep. We read. Stop at Chinyavorica. It gets dark. We stand for 15 minutes, it is not clear why. There is no toilet. There is nothing at all. People are standing in a bunch on the sidelines. Why stop is not clear. Let's go further. We sleep and read again. I read Propp. Rather, I’m finishing it. Graduated. The son goes by bus to Ukhta for the first time.

At midnight we enter Ukhta. I called the taxi. We land. The taxi is already waiting. This is a minivan from Lada. Loading in a taxi. All our junk fits and there is still room.
- Can you take me to Vuktyl tomorrow?
- Yes
- Then at 15.00 we will call you
- Good.

Well, I got a big car for tomorrow. We drive up to the house where we will spend the night. 2nd entrance. We are unloading. I'm calling. Kiril comes out. We begin to carry things to the 4th floor. We are fed. Sema is playing on a computer in her room. Oleg is attached next to him. I sit down at the TV. Watching the film "Desperate". We all fit in at 2 o'clock. My son and I are on the couch in a large room. Our things are here in a big pile.

I get up at 9.30. I drink tea. At 10, Oleg and Semyon get up. Let's have breakfast. I go to the store. Heat. I buy extra bags for things and bananas with water for the trip. I go back to the apartment. I am reading an article about Propp at the end of the book. Watching TV. I made a telephone call to the airport. At 14.00 it is clear that G. arrived on time. We are waiting for G. from the airport. We're eating.

G. arrives. Our taxi driver immediately drives up. We are loading. Everything fit.

At 15.00 we leave G., me, Oleg and Semyon to Vuktyl. Drove fromAzerbaijan Soon he is going home, so he will not meet us in Vuktyl on the way back and will not take us to Ukhta, we will have to look for a taxi on the way back at the place We are going. An hour later, drove nodding. G. notices this. I drive instead of a taxi driver. Let's go. Drove napping with children in the back seat. After 2 hours I reached the crossing. The driver slept well. Satisfied.

We pay 250 rubles for crossing the car. And for each person 60 rubles. People sail separately from the ferry by boat. Such a new way to shake out money, but people are very happy by talking because there are no more breaks. Previously, there were many breaks in the crossing and people waited a long time, but now the crossing works constantly.

Hot. You can see the place where there was a special settlement, where my mother was born - Ichet-di. Let's go. The road became very bad. Crushed stone. At 18.30 we arrived in Vuktyl. We circle around the city in search of a hostel near the office of the park "Yugyd-Va". We ask the woman. She shows. We drive up. We are unloading. Check in. We pay 500 rubles per person. For a long time the administrator cannot write the parts "Yugyd-Va", in the end she wrote "Yugyt-2". The 9-storey dorm building is huge and empty. Double rooms. Toilet and shower in the hallway. Cozy.

Let's go along Vuktyl. We went to eat at a Caucasian cuisine restaurant. There's a lot on the menu, but nothing. We take okroshka with kefir, pasta, cutlet, tea, juice, beer. Cheap. Well-fed. Let's go to the shop. We buy stewed meat and pasta. Ice cream. We find the office of the park "Yugyd-Va", it is opposite the hostel. We return to the hostel. Trying rubberized backpack bags. A necessary thing when rafting. One of the bags is very narrow - that's bad.

We go out again and walk around the city. Midge. Warmly. We reach the forest. He's around the city. Vuktyl is very small. We buy more tight bags in one open store, they may come in handy. We return to the hostel. Sleep.

In the morning we leave the hostel. We take things out. G. and I are going to the Yugyd-Va office. The guys stay near the things near the hostel. I go up to the 5th floor. There is Yugyd-Va's office. They are already waiting for me. Make out a voucher. They said we were going in a park car. I pay about 6,000 rubles for a transfer to Shchugor. I get checks. I go out onto the porch with the girl who arranged everything. She shows me one of the workers we are traveling with. UAZ "loaf" drove up. Loading. We wait. The workers are also loaded. There are two workers: fashion and old. The old man's name is Mikhalych. Young from Moldavia. How it all started there, he left. Mikhalych has been working in the park for a long time. He used to be a foreman in Lemty. He knows my uncle Vanya well.

Mikhalych goes on some business and asks us to go to his house. The deputy for tourism comes out. He wishes good luck and warns that the gas workers may not be allowed in.

We are leaving. We are going to the house of Mikhalych. We are standing near a high-rise building, waiting. 30 minutes. A man appears, also waiting for Mikhalych. Swears. Mikhalych drives up. We climb into the UAZ park and drive off. We left at 10.00. There are 2 park workers in the car, and there were four of us.

The first stop at KS-3 (tocompressor room station). Checkpoint. Checking passports. Children are admitted without a census. The guards chuckle. At the entrance to the checkpoint, 18 people from another group are sitting. They will be checked later. According to Mikhalych, they are still waiting for a lecture on the rules for being on a gas pipeline. We are given a memo and released in peace. Since our last visit in 1998, the pipeline's access system has become more complicated. Previously, you could simply bypass the COP and walk freely along the road. Now everything is tougher. We leave the checkpoint and drive further through the territory of the KS.

We are driving through the territory of KS-3. Turbine noise. Checkpoint again, at the exit. They hardly look at us. They let out from the territory. We are driving along the gas pipeline. Let's go. Let's go. Let's go. Rain. Heat. Stop near the Sukhoi stream. Take water. The water is very cold. The glacier feeds the stream. We rise to the Pelener. Pass. The machine is overheated. We got up. Cool down the motor. Strong wind. We leave. We wait. The crashed helicopter is visible. A communications vehicle is visible in the distance. Stones. Bushes. Moss. We begin the descent. Cool. The driver often grabs the handbrake. We crawl slowly to the bottom.

Plener Photos

Again the hills are going. Mount Yaruta is visible. This is indicated by Mikhalych. Shchugor begins there. We come across strange names of streams: “first”, “second”, “third”. We drive up to Shchugor. Bridge. Left behind the bridge. Through the forest. Small parking lot for gas workers. We pass. We turn into the forest on the left. There is a hut, a bathhouse, two gazebos. This is the checkpoint of the park on Verkhniy Shchugor. We are lowered to the river. I go to the top to cook food. Guys from G. are inflating boats. Quickly cook pork pasta. Tea. The guys rise from the shore. We're eating. The workers and the driver do not eat. They are waiting for us. We go down and load the boats. We set sail. Mikhalych and one of the workers are seeing us off.

We are pulling the boat. The guys are walking along the shore. Too shallow. Let's go, drag, let's go again. Soon they began to take the children on board. The river became deeper. Oleg is with me, Semyon is with G. in boats. We passed the Camel stone with three humps. Come on. Let's swim. There was a beautiful roll on the way. Water falls from the plate, but it is not possible to swim. Finely. We lower the boats.

Downpour started. We get up at 20.30 because of the downpour. G. and Semyon got wet, as they fell behind. We set up tents on the left bank, on the gravel. We turn the boats over. The rain is over. Cooking food. Buckwheat porridge with chicken. We go to bed.

A picturesque right tributary of the Pechora River in the Northern Urals, 300 kilometers long. In some sources and on some maps, this river is called not Shchugor, but Shchuger.

The sources of the river are located on the western slope of the Ural Mountains, at an altitude of 750 meters above sea level (between the peaks Molydiz, Akvalsupnel and Paryaur). The basin area is 9660 km². Average annual water consumption - - 252 m³ / sec.

The upper reaches flows between the high mountains. Shchugor made his way between Telposiz Mountain and the southern slopes of the Research Ridge. It flows into the Pechora near the village of Ust-Shchugor, named after the river and founded in the 18th century.

What does the name of the river mean? Let's look at the book of the famous Ural linguist A.K. Matveeva "Geographical names of the Urals":

“There are many reasons to believe that the initial u goes back to h: sound u completely uncharacteristic for non-Russian names of the Urals. In the Book of the Big Drawing, a tributary of the Pechora is called Chugor or Schugor; according to the census of 1579, the village located at the mouth of the Shchugor River, a tributary of the Vishera, was called Chugor ... It is possible that these names indicate the habitat or grazing of deer: the Komi language has a word chukor - "heap", "herd", "herd", in Sami - chigar - “herd of deer” and “grazing place of the herd”, in Khanty - syakhyr - "pasture". Curious that the word chugor or syugor - “the place of reindeer grazing” is also reflected in Russian documents of the Obdorsk council of the late 19th century ... Perhaps the toponyms Shchugor, Chugor and common nouns chugor, syugor go back to some Finno-Ugric or Samoyed language. "

The river has crystal clear and transparent water. There are many fish in Shchugor. Salmon spawn here.

Tourists float along Shchugor. There are many rifts and rapids. Cliffs rise along the banks, the most interesting of which are the Upper, Middle and Lower Gates, flanking the river from both banks. There are caves.

There is not a single settlement on the entire 300-kilometer river. It flows through the territory of Yugyd Va National Park.

At the end of the 19th century, the Sibiryakovsky tract (or Shchugorsky portage) passed here, laid by an entrepreneur and gold miner and A.M. Sibiryakov. Siberian bread was transported along it.

NOT. Ermilov on the Shchugor River (1888)

I propose to get acquainted with a fragment from N.Ye. Ermilov's "A Trip to Pechora", published in 1888:

“The Shchugor River, at the mouth of which the Sibiryakovskaya pier was founded, is remarkable for the beauty of its banks, the transparency of the water and the speed of the current - qualities inherent in a mountain river: the Shchugor flows out of the Ural Mountains and on its way cuts through the Ijedi Parma ridge. Having entered the mouth of this river, we sailed first between the low-lying banks, consisting of alluvial sand, covered with groups of birches, now with willow bushes. Little by little, the shores rose, birches were replaced by pines, spruces and larch; among the sandy plain, huge individual stones began to come across, which gradually turned into giant cliffs hanging over the water; the flow of the river grew faster and faster. Two islands - Tokar-yol and Tokar-di, we met on the way, also have a mountainous character and are covered with dense green, one might say, virgin vegetation: they are rarely disturbed by the human presence.

Finally, we reached the most beautiful point on Shchugor - an area called Uldom-Kyrta in Zyryan, which means "iron gates" in Russian. In front of these iron gates, the river widens for almost a mile, which is why its flow turns from very fast to slow; a vast lake is formed, closed in front by two high mountains, overgrown on the tops with a dense dark forest. For the passage of the river, these mountains seem to move apart and a gate is formed, 80 yards wide, into which the river rushes in with noise, hissing, blaming and terribly agitated: the speed of the current at the gate is unusually high. These gates - the iron gates, Uldor-Kyrta - represent high stone walls, 40 fathoms in height, consisting of light gray limestone, wrinkled with deep vertical crevices, cracks and potholes, in the depth of which green stripes of sod and bushes growing there are visible. After passing 30 fathoms along these stone walls, you again go out into the vastness of the river freed from the shackles, the excitement of which again turns into a smooth surface, and the roar, noise and speed are replaced by a calm current ... It is difficult to imagine this wild but majestic view of northern nature.

Further up the river, there are no less majestic gates - Sher-Kyrta, the middle rock, which also restrict the river on both sides with sheer cliffs that protrude far into its bed. Then there is the third stone gate - Veldor-Kyrta. Even upstream of the Shchugor, on its bank, rises the high mountain Tylpos-iz (stone, nest of the wind); about what the Zyryans have a belief according to which there is a constant abode of the wind on it, why the slightest sound of a voice or a knock made on this mountain causes a terrible storm in its vicinity. Even higher up the Shchugor there are caves with eternal, non-melting ice. But we could not get there and see all these wonders of nature: the steamer, having reached the Sher-Kyrt (middle gate), could not cope with the speed and strength of the river current, against which we were sailing, and was forced to turn back ...

The clarity of the Shchugor water is striking: at a depth of 2 fathoms, small pebbles are clearly and distinctly visible, even gravel grains, covering the river bottom; after the confluence of the Shchugor into the Pechora, its water does not mix with the Pechora water, but it differs sharply from it for many versts below the mouth of this mountain tributary of the Pechora, so that the observer sees the last river as two parallel and continuous flowing ribbons of water - light, transparent ribbons on the right bank and more turbid, grayish, on the left ”.

Every person, wherever fate has thrown him, cherishes in his soul the image of some village lost in the woods, a stream, a grove, with which the warmest memories of childhood, first discoveries, first love are connected. Craving for a "small" homeland, nostalgia for the cherished landscape, exciting, almost obsessive dreams of returning to inviting lands - these feelings support our optimism, preserve the belief that the best is yet to come.

It is precisely this, falling in love with yourself, a bewitching corner wildlife, already quite rare on our planet, is the Shchugor, one of the largest Ural tributaries of the Pechora. It amazes with its beauty, pristine landscapes, richness of flora and fauna.

Extremely strong feelings leave the acquaintance with the indomitable character of Shchugor on the thresholds. The river literally bites into the mighty mountain ranges, so that then calmly and majestically carry its waters in the canyons, stone steep slopes down. The canyons are lavishly framed by rock outcrops overgrown with cedar. The purity and taste of crystal Shchugorsk water is unique. In the spray of the falling jets there is an unusually rich multicolor of sun glare. And with what can one compare the grace, the power of an elastic body that jumped out of the water like a candle? This is the queen of the streams of the North - the famous Atlantic salmon.

Such is Shchugor, one of the attractions Komi land. She is born on the southern slopes of Mount Yaruta. On its three-hundred-kilometer path, the river overcomes a mountainous strip, a rugged zone and the eastern part of the Pechora lowland. Rapids, endless in the upper reaches, give way to sections, on which short, but violent and noisy rifts alternate with long stretches and pits. One of the eternal symbols of the Urals - Ovin-stone - rises in a huge block in the middle of the channel. The already cramped floodplain of the river is interrupted by the most picturesque masses of the Upper and Middle Gates of Shchugor, formed by outcrops of limestone rocks of the Carboniferous system.
The majestic shores, often turning into sheer walls, are pierced with many grottoes, caves, gorges.

In one of these gorges of the Upper Gate, a Shugorsky waterfall, hiding from the eyes, falls in a tight stream from an apparent dizzying height. For a long time, like a magnet, it attracts tireless travelers of mountains and forests - tourists. Gray-haired rocks cut into the parma with a wide symmetrical fan. They form the Lower Gates, captivating with their severity and mystery, giving the impression of being man-made.

But Shchugor is not only an amazing natural monument. Its waters are the favorite habitat of an extremely interesting fish community. Their value is determined by salmon-like, among which - salmon treated kindly by the world fame.

The virgin forests adjacent to the river and its tributaries are made up of cedar, spruce, fir, pine, birch, and aspen. The combination of dense spruce forests and spacious pine forests, birch forests and swamps is convenient for nesting and permanent habitation of grouse - hazel grouse, wood grouse, black grouse, partridge. Most of the islands, and in the lower reaches and floodplain meadows, are chosen by black forest cocks, for tournament fights - here their current is. In the very first autumn frosts, one can observe massive outcrops to the pebble spits of the Shchugor of hundreds and thousandths of flocks of wood grouses and black grouses.

In the spring, when the first grass appears on the banks of the river, it is not uncommon to meet a taiga owner, which is terrible for a beginner - brown bear... Hares, who have not yet had time to throw off their winter snow-white outfit, often come here. In the summer, the waters of the Shchugor become the only escape from the midges for large ungulates - wild reindeer and elk. In the riverside forests, encounters with squirrels, martens, kidus, ermine, fox are quite common. An experienced observer will see the tracks of lynx and wolverine, otter and even sable. All this is the everyday life of Shchugor.

The season of the year is remarkable here, when the insane element will carry away the last fragments of the winter cover of the river and only under the thick canopy of age-old fir trees will snow remain in darkened rags. It was then that on the banks of the river we had to observe truly biblical pictures that have been preserved in our innate memory from the ancient ancestors.

A little further from the water's edge, a pair of hares peacefully cuts young shoots of cereals. There and then, on the pebbles, grouses are walking, not at all embarrassed by the neighborhood of several mergansers - predatory toothy ducks. Nearby - for some unknown reason, a teal adhering to their company. And the white-tailed eagle, hovering over a lonely rock, bent over the furiously rushing Shchugor stream, it would seem, is not at all interested in the careless inhabitants of this natural zoo. However, the bear, poking around in the anthill already tested by its brother on the opposite bank of the river, is also absolutely calm. As if Brem's illustrations are brought together here. All this idyll is immersed in biblical silence, as desired and so unknown for the inhabitants of a modern city. The silence is broken only by the rustling, ringing noise of water beating against stones. Divine peace seems to wash away from the soul everything petty, vain, leaving only thoughts about the significant, the eternal.

Vasily Ponomarev

This route will allow you to get acquainted with wonderful natural siteslocated on the border of the Northern and Subpolar Urals - the Shchugor River and the highest peak of the Northern Urals - Telpos-Iz Mountain (1619 m). Tourists will float on inflatable boats on the Shchugor River from the headwaters to the mouth, with an inspection of the most beautiful coastal cliffs, and also climb the Telpos-Iz mountain.

Type of tourism: hiking, rafting.

Group size: from 2 people.

Duration: 14 days / 13 nights.

Tour cost: 25,000 rubles per person.

Children's age: from 14 years old.

Route thread: vuktyl town - the Punga-Vuktyl-Ukhta gas pipeline route - the upper reaches of the Shchugor - rafting down the Shchugor river to the Durnoy-El stream - climbing Telpos-Iz mountain (1619 m) - rafting down the Shchugor river to the village. Ust-Shchugor.

Photos*. Mountain of the Nest of the Winds.

* Belkov V.V., Revda.

Tour program.

* The route or the schedule of movement along the route can be adjusted on the spot, based on weather conditions, the preparedness of the group and other circumstances.

The tour price includes: equipment rental (catamarans; oars; life jackets; tents, campfire equipment, tourist mat, sleeping bag), 3 meals a day, all transfers according to the program, services of guides and instructors and a cook. Accident insurance is included in the cost of the route. The insurance policy is issued for the group and is kept by the instructors along the route.

Not included in the price: tick-borne encephalitis insurance, backpack rental, photo and video filming.
Required additions:
... Work on the program , 1 person per catamaran.
... Life jackets, oars are issued as special equipment;

As personal equipment during the hike, you must have: a backpack, a windproof suit, a rain cover, a hat, warm clothes, at least two pairs of shoes + slates or sneakers, a bathing suit, personal dishes, a flashlight, hygiene items.

Estimated additional costs: food on the train, souvenirs.

Required documents: passport, voucher.
Nutrition: 3 times a day. Food is cooked by the instructor at the stake according to recipes , if you wish, you can take part and master a few secrets of culinary skills.
Medicine: a first aid kit is available from the guides. You can bring a personal first aid kit (if needed).