As you all probably already know, on the May holidays, my husband and three friends went sailing along the Rybnaya River. But since it flows into the Kan River, and the Kan River flows into the Yenisei, we have obtained a triple alloy.

The trip was exciting and its length was about 150 km. And the journey began on May Day ...

From p.Gromadsk, which is located on the banks of the Rybnaya river.

From Wikipedia: "The Rybnaya River is the left tributary of the Kan River. It is 288 km long. It originates in the spurs of the Eastern Sayan."

We arrived at the launch site early in the morning and the whole meadow was covered with fresh snow.



We got into the water at 12 noon and went ... The river turned out to be dirty green, bushy bushes grew along the banks


here and there, recessed trees stuck out from under the water. And suddenly, bam !!! The whole river is enclosed by huge fuel trees.

There was only one way out: to unload the catamaran and enclose a blockage of trees along the shore. And judging by the footprints on the shore, we were not the first)))




Having risen again into the water and after literally another half hour, we again come across a blockage of trees on the river. But we were lucky, on the right side of the river there was a small passage. The guys cleaned it up a bit and we barely barely, shuffling our sides on the branches and the bottom on the recessed trees, squeezed through it.


In general, it was necessary to look very carefully at the river so as not to run into the sticking sharp branches of recessed trees.

Four hours later, a bridge appeared on our way, it is called Holguin Bridge. Very uncomfortable place to go. Stones stick out on the right and left along the shore, and in the middle on the course itself there is a bridge support.

During the passage under the bridge, a curious lamb watched us from the shore.

Toward evening, on our way, the first, really human-built threshold, called "Dam" arose.

For the night we landed at the beginning of the seventh.

While preparing pilaf (my signature camping dish), I went to the forest to capture natural beauty.








The night was very refreshing, but we were not cold. Although, getting up in the morning, they found that our water turned out to be frozen.

In the morning, having breakfast and studying the map of our future path, at 11-30 we went to conquer the rapids and shiver.

A bit of educational program:

Shivera is a shallow section of the river with randomly located underwater and protruding stones with a fast current.

A threshold is a rocky or rocky section of a river with an increased flow rate and a relatively large drop in water marks.

And on this day on our way there were plenty of them. We were doused with water from head to toe. My camera was packed in a plastic bag, which sometimes interfered with photographing and it can be seen in some photos in the lower right corner)))










After actively passing the rapids and shiver, we got hungry. We landed and prepared a quick lunch.


And while the guys replenished their strength, I went to do my favorite thing - to photograph the beauty !!! On the banks of the river in some places there is still snow.

And there are a lot of beavers on the Rybnaya River. We did not see them live, but the products of their livelihood were nibbled along the coast.




Favorite "stars".


I am my own person)))

It was evening, we couldn’t find a place to spend the night, and we landed only at 8 o’clock in the evening. Tired of such an active day, we quickly prepared dinner and fell asleep.

In the morning, I decided to explore the place of our second night, but only after a delicious breakfast. A cup of brewed coffee and sandwiches with brown bread - what else is needed to awaken and restore strength!

Near our tents were two anthills. I tried to shoot them, try to consider)))



On the river bank, in the sand, there were many empty shells from river mussels.

And back on the road! Everything fits, tightly attached. And so every morning, and vice versa in the evening)))


On the third day of the journey along the banks, huts began to appear in which you can spend the night and even go to the bathhouse.


By the afternoon of the third day we went to the Kan River.



The place where Rybnaya and Kahn meet.

Caen is much wider than Rybna and calmer. The flow is slow. Therefore, we decided to make a sail out of an awning, since the wind blew in our backs. But if the wind were on the contrary, then we would have warmed up enough)))



I tried to capture the traces of deer that we saw when we landed ashore for human needs. These two holes in the sand are the trace))) Honestly)))


By evening, we reached the remaining shiver planned for the passage and passed them with a sense of accomplishment and self-esteem.





And they landed on a wonderful sandy beach, which was more like a sea coast. We stayed in a small lagoon.


Where there was a wonderful parking lot with firewood and two trees completely hung, guess what ... not with cones, but ...

Ust-Angarsk-Nizhneshadrino

July 11th. They pulled out a net, caught a little fish in the ear. It’s sad that a month of travel has already passed, and it’s joyful that everything is going according to plan, we went through the first stage. Rowing already confidently, strongly and for a long time, corns harden. The current in the Yenisei bears like mad. Crossed to the left bank, got a snack in the gardens of Lesosibirsk. A total of 48 km passed along the Yenisei. We swim along the city. Saturday, everyone drives motorboats, scooters. We pass the sand, where coal and firewood are loaded from small to large barges and pulled them to the north. I went to the city, threw off a photo on a USB flash drive - my own and Wolf, in the Yuzhny computer store. As it turned out, this was a fatal mistake - after returning from the campaign, the flash drive was not detected and could not be read, the information could not be restored. Therefore, the photos from Ust-Ilimsk to Lesosibirsk belong to Wolf, Valentin Chugay, since we practically shot the same thing in parallel. But a lot of valuable was lost. In the store I bought chocolate, fermented baked milk, condensed milk, bread, rolls. Then she ran off to get a beer, went the short way and got lost, went upstream. Wolf waving - faster! zapan will close! Sail along Lesosibirsk, industrial landscape, cranes, waves. The boats welcome us, they wave from the wheelhouse, through a megaphone they ask where and where. Then I got tired of looking at the iron, we went under the right bank beyond Father Maklakovsky. We drank a fermented baked milk with buns and sail past the village of Gorodishche, then we pass the village of Kamensk with the church, got out and took a picture of it. Are tired. The wolf overheated, I ran. Full of people on the beach, swimming, relaxing. We got up near the road beyond Kamenskoye - there are no more forces. We drank beer. We went to put the net - and then a fish inspection suddenly appeared. How have we not noticed her before? The wolf quickly hid the net under itself, pretending to just ride. Boiled buckwheat, lay down. They just began to fall asleep - voices were heard on the shore, fishermen. Got out, chatted. One even heard about the Wolf, his friend found Chugai's business card on the Lower Tunguska last year. We talked about traveling, why do people need it. Decided that this is a contagious disease. Fishermen went further, 3 hours, it’s getting light.

July, 12 . We got up at 9 a.m. Cooked milk porridge. We must go further, there is a passage yard, near the road and the village. And there should already be a day. I want to wash, and so that the corn on his left hand heals. At the Wolf, when you have to rest (on the waves or when the barge passed, and the current dragged on under it), then the head hurts, the tsitramon swallows. On the way we meet the company, they took everything for barbecue, but forgot the matches, gave them a lighter. I’m worried that I didn’t buy a loaf in the store yet - there is condensed milk. Forever forget something. The current drags great. Almost without straining, they walked 20 km along the right bank past Verhnepashino, Potapovo. Yeniseisk on the left bank, far. Fotayu zoom church. They say that this is a small quiet town like our Suzdal. It is a pity that it was not possible to enter, time for his visit was not allotted in the campaign schedule. Sunday, people walk, relax on the beaches along the Yenisei. All with cars or motorboats. Flies and horseflies attack, in packs, fight off and stack them in front of them in heaps, on a bait for fish. Wolf wants to make and test a boat. Opposite Yeniseisk, we are greeted by a company, asked where we are from, and invited to sit with them. They celebrate the 40th anniversary of graduation from school No. 1 of the city of Yeniseisk, 10-A, graduation 1969. They feed us kebabs, okroshka, pour Isabella, ask about the trip, as we met. We are talking about the fate of the Yenisei. Very cute, funny. We shoot them. Hamlet Harutyunyan gives us his book of poems. The wolf is questioned about life in an “independent”, inevitable talk about politics, customs, and to whom all this is beneficial. We part, and the next person, next to us, waves to us and says that he also wanted to invite us, but they were ahead of us. And many more times we answer where we are from and where, everyone is interested. We pass the village of Epishino. On the right bank there is a continuous swamp, we leave under the left bank for Ust-Kemyu and get up for a day on a pebble opposite the village of Podtesovo. The forest is full of mosquitoes, but there are none on the shore. You can only drag along when you go for firewood. Steamboats walk here and there. I cook buckwheat, but I can’t eat, I ate barbecue. The wolf directly caught the catfish lying on the shallows with his hands. He has a huge liver, tomorrow will go in your ear. We put a grid along the coast directly without a kayak. I am warming the water and my head, otherwise I’m ashamed to take off the cap. I’m checking ICQ - no one is writing to me, no one is looking for, well, okay. We walked along the Yenisei 90 km. Once again, all over again.

In winter, intently "traveling" on the map, we became interested in the small rivulet Porozhnaya, in the north of the Yenisei Ridge. On the one hand, it is inaccessible to motor boats, and on the other, it is relatively easy to get to its upper reaches on foot. Therefore, it was logical to aim there for a secluded outdoor activity among untouched nature.

Porozhnaya is located south of the village of Bor and flows about a hundred kilometers from the village to the south and then flows into the Yenisei. The Yenisei flows to the north, that is, to the village. It was decided to ride almost 200 kilometers in a circle on this natural carousel. The difference in water levels on the river slide is quite decent - 120 meters, and the highest point of the watershed on the way rises above the Yenisei level by just 160 m.
As always, hospitable friends - Oleg Derevyanko's family (www.votetorybalka.ru) helped in the casting along the Yenisei to the starting point. Next was a walking route of one and a half dozen kilometers through the watershed to the upper Porozhnaya, from where an interesting rafting began. The path to the watershed passed up the channel of the stream, and its clean, cold water refreshed well in the heat. On the sides of the valley hills alternate with swamps and picturesque cliffs hanging over the stream. When on the third day of the campaign the planned point in the upper reaches of the river was reached, the pedestrian part of the route, which seemed previously difficult to overcome, was completed. The distance traveled was remembered by the murmur of a cool stream, the astringent smell of rosemary and rustles of taiga ... Further, the waterway for 200 km ran along the very narrow river where the boat barely passed, then along the beautiful mountain taiga river with rifts, streaks, rapids, boulders and rocks https://youtu.be/H30opQjeSuA

and then - along the powerful, more than 2 km wide, Yenisei
Empty - amazingly beautiful river with clean drinking water.
Behind each turn there are sections with a confident course, now creases, then ducks or geese, scaredly taking off from favorite places. We walked through quick rocky rifts, small but numerous rapids, quiet deep backwaters, overcame shivers from stone collapses, and surrounded deaf creases. In the evenings it was pleasant to have dinner with a fresh ear or baked pike. The harvest of cedar cones was small, but we were lucky to pick up a little for tasting without even leaving the boat ... That season we had incredible luck: there was no excessive heat, prolonged rains, and - fantastic - there was no vile thing at all!
The river brought true pleasure, and the exit from it to the Yenisei gave new sensations of stunning spaciousness. In a day and a half, we managed to walk 90 km along the Yenisei on oars, and this part of the route delivered no less pleasant impressions, especially in my spare time from oars shift ...

Once we (a group of Dmitry Marchuk, Moscow State University named after M. Lomonosov) had a wonderful idea - to fuse along the Yenisei sources. It is known that it is formed from the confluence of Ka-Khem (Small Yenisei), originating in Mongolia, and Biy-Khem (Big Yenisei), which carries all its waters along Tuva. These two rivers meet in Kyzyl, in the geographical center of Asia, from where already the Yenisei begins its journey. Ka-Khem and Biy-Khem have been visited by tourists for a long time.

Our route was attractive in its scale: we decided to go through not only Biy-Khem, but also its two main tributaries - Bash-Khem and Ulug-O, and most importantly - to start rafting from the very sources of Biy-Khem, from the Kok-Khem river. It is interesting because it falls by waterfalls from hanging valleys (an almost flat plateau abruptly breaks off with a ledge, and the next plateau begins below). In the Moscow city tourist club there was even a report (albeit a very inaccurate one) about a trip to Kok-Khem, so we had some faint idea of \u200b\u200bthe river and it seemed to us that it was quite possible to pass it, at least partially.

There were 13 of us in three “four” catamarans. Looking ahead, I’ll say that we passed a few rapids on Kokkhem: the river turned out to be very shallow and rocky, with large drops. But I really liked our entire “Trans-Sayan” route, and 12 years later I took the group of Alexander Selvachev from the Moscow Physics and Technology College here. In May, I happened to go with this group to two Caucasian rivers: the Malaya Labu and its tributary, Urushten. One of the crews managed to make the first ascent of the very difficult threshold Shestislivnik on Urushten. Inspired by such a victory, the group decided that it was within its power to overcome Kok-Hem's obstacles that had not been previously passed.

This time we had 19 people - three “four” catamarans, two “deuces” and a kayak. Now it is interesting to compare these two campaigns, committed with an interval of 12 years. Each trip, as you know, begins with the casting on the route. And she - at least in 1988 - was a big part of this unique journey. It was possible to reach normally only to the village. Mondy. Next - only a cross-country vehicle. We caught a simple "ZIL", which was stuck in every puddle, in every pit. So we got to the village. Forty. From there, we reached the village in the third car in a row. Orlik.

After a day of sitting there on the “ZIL-157” we reached the village. Shasnur, and even then not immediately: in connection with the late time, it took a long time to persuade the ferryman to transport it through the Oka. And then feet, on horses, tractors and again feet ... And so they got to the right pass to the headwaters of Kok-Khem for days 5. How, by the second time, everything was simplified! In Slyudyanka, we were met by two cars - so diligently I ordered transport. Choose the one that arrived from Orlik. We ride on a good road on the PAZ bus and are surprised: in 1988 there were blurry tracks with gullies, holes, streams. We reach Orlik overnight, there is a transfer to the Urals, which takes us to the very pass in a day, at the head of the Sentsa River (by the way, there’s a bridge over the Oka now, oh miracle!)

The pass leads to the IzigSug river valley. We pass the lake. Bright blue fields of aquilegia set off its blueness. In places, like bright lights, heads of frying. The trail leads to a wonderful resort on our way - Choigansky springs, radon baths. It’s impossible to wait until tomorrow - everyone wants to quickly plunge into the warm water. We maintain the norm of visiting baths - we sit from 15 minutes to half an hour. Inspired by a quick transfer to the route, we decide to stay here, and the whole next day we completely devote to the sources. We plunge into the warm baths and lay there for hours. Immediately from the sources, an ascent begins up the Izig-Sug River, towards the peak of the Topographers. Narrow valley. Sharp take-offs along a stream falling by waterfalls. Hot. The pungent smell of flowering herbs. A stream sparkles, cheerful white butterflies flutter. It’s hard to go.

Last time. here we carried firewood, hoping to spend the night above the border of the forest. This was superfluous: some bushes and dwarf birch trees continued to climb the slopes for a long time. We risk becoming higher than the forest zone without taking firewood with us. While the men are returning for things lying on the slope (this time they went up in two walks, a shuttle), the women manage to get enough fuel. Parking on the shore of a green lake. Freezing water. But we can’t dive into it. The path leading to the pass to the Kok-Khem River bypasses the lake on the left along the course, making an almost complete circle. To the right of the trail, it seems a stone's throw. Only the path is blocked by a creek and a grasshopper descending directly into the lake.

The people in the Selvachev group are stubborn: here's another, extra kilometers to walk! And many begin to crawl along the grassland. The tiny colored dots look enormous from the trail among the huge stones with a house! The pass leads us to the river valley along which we want to start rafting. Small playful streams flow here from the slope, straying into larger streams, then into even larger ones ... Thus the great Yenisei is born. In 1988, we fled to the first firewood. In 2000, we become under the pass. Surprisingly: here some firewood - dry twigs of a dwarf birch - can be found. The creek runs down, and so do we. Together with it we fall from one hanging valley to another. Feet are confused in dwarf birches ...

Sergey Altundzhi and I had to return from the place of the slipway under the pass behind Sergey’s kayak. A furious thought occurs to him - to fuse right from the sources. He alone will have such a first ascent! Persuading that this is very dangerous, does not listen. He puts on a wetsuit, life jacket, sits in a kayak and disappears around the bend. I am going after him. Suddenly, something pricked. As if a voice sounded: "Sasha!" I run to the river. He did not shout anything, but I see: the kayak is spread between the stones, and Sergey barely keeps afloat. The situation is critical. I help get out, the benefit is not wide river. It is already getting dark. And Sergey, to my great satisfaction, decides to stop the rafting. We are carrying a kayak. Drag the kayak. The path is always lost ... Only at 2 am we reach the parking lot. We sail very carefully. Trying to track dubious landmarks.

After all, the threshold can begin completely harmless, and then collapse the waterfall to a new level of the valley. The river valley is very uniform and consists of several steps. There are no landmarks for the next fall. Only with the help of intuition and great experience can we predict it. Apparently, this is precisely why this river did not have a normal line, but did not. We pass only shiver and small sills. The steps by which the river falls from valley to valley are fascinating, but they do not give a chance to pass. Even less water (and hoped for more!). All good intentions associated with the ascent, become unrealistic. We enclose all steps. Too steep and cluttered with sharp stones. Apparently impassable for catamarans, even in large water.

Apart from the waterfalls, the second time we go through everything that did not pass the first time. And vice versa: we are not able to go through what has been done before. So, the Baby threshold, which frightened us for the first time with its narrowness and clamps, was now easily overcome by all the courts. Although we were not the first to go along the river, the fleet was very chaotic, and the rapids did not have names, we called them ourselves. It was very funny every night to argue over the next name. Something lay down right away. For example, the Scaffold is an impenetrable threshold, and, as a result of this, the Elevator to the Scaffold directly passes into it. Great controversy caused the name of the threshold, named after all the Cataclysm. This was the name I proposed, ending all debates. But the wicked men wanted to call him Wagtail, since I did not let them pass the threshold, panicked about him ...

With the threshold of the Jaw, everything was also simple: he tore into pieces the "admiral" catamaran. How much then had to be repaired on the marshy shores of Lake Kara-Balyk! The cataclysm has passed. Of course, they watched, argued, doubted for a long time. But the passage of this threshold by the crews was, as always in this group, very spectacular. Jaws enclosed without even looking. After all, if now there is less water, then the stones (jaws) are obviously more. And time was already running out strongly, there was definitely no time left for repairs. Lake Kara-Balyk. From here begins the Great Yenisei. The river quickly carried us down.

In with great interest and enthusiasm, the Shivitsky cascade sailed. The videographer, sitting in the center of the catamaran, joyfully shot a catamaran galloping along the waves and splashing in different directions. “What is the most difficult threshold on Bill Hem?” - a few years ago, a tricky tourist-waterman Nikolai Telegin asked me a tricky question. I hesitated. These are considered Kaifas and Helen. But Nicholas meant the Gate. I agreed. After all, neither the first nor the second time we were able to track this threshold. The Gate has no landmarks. Last time, we flew into the right duct blocked by a tree. How at the time of overcoming the drain we all managed to jump over this log, jump out of the stops and fly into them again, history is silent. After 12 years, the flagship crew also flew here without viewing.

The next threshold is Surprise. Its charm lies in the fact that tracking it is also quite difficult, but the place to view is not the best: high cliffs. And for parking, the place is completely “fabulous”. Once I got to Surprise, there are two ways: either go through, or climb into the sky to spend the night. And why brings people here in the late afternoon ?! And here the highlight of the river is Kaifas. In the main drain we enclose. In the Selvachev group, work was done in good faith. There was a long view from the left bank, then from the right. Insurance is on both banks. Below is a safety catamaran. The first was the ship of Yurka Borisov - the most confident captain. A catamaran on flat gondolas stood on a candle (almost vertically at the rear ends of the cylinders) ... it leveled off and successfully passed the exit shiver, all aboard. "Deuces" came from under the main drain.

Threshold Helen, produced on us. a vivid impression that almost didn’t look at low tide (the whole trip in the river was falling!) - the threshold was passed with video operators on board. The empty part of Biy-Hem is over. Now down, down and down. Why, if there are several vessels in the group, then someone is in a hurry, but someone is lagging behind? As a result, in the first trip, we paid a beautiful walking part to the upper Bash-Khem crossed out of the route, in the second case we got a very heavy throw. Beautiful 15-meter Biy-Khemsky waterfall. If today we have time to disassemble the catamarans and start, then there is still a chance to go on foot to Bash Hem. But, alas, the last catamaran comes here only in the evening. We make a painful decision: we sail to the mouth of Bash-Khem and climb 17 km up to go through the main rapids.

The only consolation is that you can not drag all the products and leave too much at the mouth of the river. And the path here was also beautiful! Where else can you meet spruce and fir, pine, cedar, larch? The walking part is half a day, the rafting is three hours ... And now we see five men down the Biy-Khem: they need to hurry home to Moscow. Eight of us (3 of them women) sail to the left tributary of the Biy-Khem - the Munich River, disassemble the vessels and slowly and slowly (how much harder it became!) We move through flowering meadows along the same Mun to the south, towards the river. Ulug-O. The beginning of the rafting is almost its upper reaches. Here, a little downstream, the road from the village approaches the left bank. Boyarovka. The place of the slipway is about one and a half kilometers from the water: there are no trees closer to the frame; there is a continuous carpet of yellow and red dwarf birches around. On the 28th day of the route we again lower the vessels into the river.

Rather, in the creek. We move, as on a scooter, now and then helping ourselves with our feet, tired and hungry. And then ... people! They give us two loaves of bread and a bag of crackers. I divide one loaf into 8 parts, and right on the water we, savoring, eat pieces with such a forgotten taste ... And then Ulug-O flowed. There is little water. Almost all obstacles are overcome immediately. It should be noted that six of the eight remaining members of the group were here three years ago during the flood. Swam then very hard and slow. Now we just had time to wave our hands: “here we stood”, “here we had lunch”, “here we also stood” ... We quickly pass Ulug-O. At Biy-Khem, one stop for half an hour to cook soup, and - good luck! - we see a tugboat pulling a forest on the river. We cling to rafts ....

Everything was different. Behind the waterfall we built galleys: we connected the “four” catamaran and the “two” in pairs. There is one helmsman on the gallery, the rest are rowers. Our helmsman Yurka skillfully catches the flow, and we fly at a fantastic speed. Galera Selvacheva is far behind - we have time to cook dinner. In this campaign, a trip to Bash-Khem was not planned, but they thought about Ulug-O (if we have time). But the time did not meet. And here is the village of Toora-Khem, the center of the Togina region of Tuva, the place where the rafting along Biy-Khem ends. And there are no options to get to Kyzyl: airplanes do not fly, there are no tickets for the Rocket for a month in advance. We learn that all cargoes are delivered here by the “Urals” to Lake Mun, and then they are driven by motorboats. What a shame that we swam this place. Now 40 km will have to return up the river ... Very hard motorboats overcome the current. We fly into the night, into the fog ... We have to spend the night.

On Lake Muen, the motor of our boat stalled completely: gas ran out. For 10 km it was possible to observe the picture "barge haulers on Munich" ... The car we were counting on left early in the morning. We sit a day, work through options, send messengers to the road. Finally, we catch the "Ural", the driver of which just came to catch a fish. It was not fate that he went fishing today, but we were leaving ... Our two trans-Sayan campaigns were over. Perhaps a lot of people will still go along these routes. But it’s very interesting if anyone will manage to overcome at least something of what we have not gone through at Kok-Khem ... In conclusion, some conclusions. 1. The total length of the route planned for the first time was about 500 km. We even had a hand-drawn map.

Its length, respectively, was about 5 m. But we went 450 km, of which 80 km were the first part on foot, 140 km along Kok-Khem and Biy-Khem to the mouth of Bash Khem, 17 km uphill along Bash Khem, then as much down. Another 70 km - along Biy-Khem to Munich, 25 km - a pawn on Ulug-O, 100 km - rafting along Ulug-O and another 100 km along Biy-Khem to Kyzyl. For the second time, we managed to reduce the walking part to 30 km. We did not pass tributaries. Therefore, the total length of the route along Kok-Khem and Biy-Khem was 250 km. To Lake Mun 40 km and 10 km along it we moved on motorboats. 2. In 1988, we spent 33 days on the undercarriage of the route. In 2000, we had only 3 weeks, so we did not think about Bash-Khem. But they believed that due to the strength of the group and the time saved on the approaches, we would be able to get to Ulug-O.

However, they walked more slowly, now getting stuck at the sources, sometimes wasting time shuttling, or because of the fuzzy regime of the day. With a more rigorous organization of the campaign, we could have time to pass Ulug-O, the more we still had to get to Munich. 3. It is very difficult to talk about the complexity category of Kok-Hem. The river consists of very simple shiver, thresholds of 5 k.s. (Myshl, Elevator to the Scaffold, Cataclysm, Jaws) and a number of steps 10 to 50 m high, cluttered with stones. There is doubt that they will be somehow categorized and completed. Biy-Khem at all times was considered the classic "five". Only the rapids of Kaifas and Helen claim a higher category of complexity.

Bash-Khem and Ulug-O, in essence, are good slalom "fives", although they are not very much in terms of mileage. Both times we traveled in August, in 1988 we started two weeks earlier. How we counted on more water in 2000 is hard to say. Most likely, bearing in mind that in 1988 at the beginning of the route it was uniquely small, and then it rose. The water on Kok-Khem was about the same both times or a second time even slightly lower, and also fell during the campaign. But the passage of one or another obstacle depended not on water, but on the mood of the group. In 1988, they were very cautious, in 2000 they walked more confidently, and the threshold of the Jaw for the second time turned out to be just an overall impassable passage.

This route is very interesting, especially if you master it all, with Biy-Khem and Ulug-O. Very beautiful and different rivers, picturesque pedestrian parts on them. Five species grow along Bash Hem coniferous trees: cedar, fir, spruce, pine and larch. Such a trip is a whole study of the region. You can go, as many walk, starting rafting with Biy-Hem. Is it worth it to suffer with Kok-Hem, I'm not sure. But it reduces the mileage of the pedestrian part. And in no case should you hope to leave Toor-Khem if you do not have tickets for the Rocket. It’s better to sail along Ulug-O or just down Biy-Khem. Although it is 250 km, the current is fast. And then he will pick up, like the first time, a boat with rafts ...