I climbed the ridge Big Bitch once. And our path to the ridge, as I understand it now, was very non-standard.
Firstly, the guide Ivan Susanin led us. It was written on his T-shirt and seriously stated that his name was Vanya, and his name was Susanin, and his vocation to be a guide in the Ural taiga. I hope you understand what feelings took possession of me when I, in company with our German financial director, with my beloved nephew and a 17-year-old German boy who came to practice in Russia and for whose safety his father instructed me to answer personally, approached to the shore of the stormy Zyuratkul for some reason and saw a rusty trough, which Ivan Susanin called a motor boat. However, the motor was.
Secondly, we had to melt on the other side of Zyuratkul in a rusted trough (well, yes, this was a boat with a motor, according to Ivan Susanin) in two shifts of 4 people across a very hectic lake that day. In general, at that moment, the waves seemed to me like at sea.
By the way, the trip turned out to be surprisingly simple. First we walked along a beautiful forest trail along which frogs rode with us. Then the path went uphill, but we walked along it with a quick step, not particularly bothering. And only the last 100 meters climbed a little on the rocks in a dense forest. I kept looking around and looking for the traces of Baba Yaga, she certainly had to live in this windbreak.
And then incredible space opened up.
Big Bitch Valery Kuznetsova
“Better than mountains can only be mountains that have not been before.
Old, beaten up? But this is true!
Your mountains take away: the soul, heart, liver ... You can’t already without the next dose of mountains. Mountains ... After all, they are somewhere "... reign in the distance and insanely beautiful by themselves ...".
But if you really want to, you can find the mountains very close to the house (with Ufa). Real thousandths, with mountain taiga and gray tongues of kurum crashing into the taiga. With the ruins of the outlier rocks, the smell of rhododendron and crazy views of all five corners of the world. You will say that the world has four ends. I will say that there is a fifth just in case, when everything interesting in four does not fit.
Such mountains, of course, is the ridge of the Big Bitch. Rocky, pointed, all bristling with peaks. And although the emphasis in the word “Bitch” is placed on the last syllable, sometimes when you move the traverse of the ridge, no, no, and it will break out from your chest or from under your feet another native russian word. And out of habit, the echo will echo out loudly: mother, mother, mother ...
Good on Bitch and close. Just 200 km from the Avenue of October city of Ufa. This circumstance allows you to drive into the "real mountains" in just a day and come back. What we do regularly.
We go to Bitch only twice a year, in spring and autumn. Usually in the fall, at the end of September, you always run into the snow. Therefore, this year we decided to go there early and everyone is happy - we caught good weathergreat views. And the next lucky ones got their much-needed dose of mountains.
For those who will soon have breakdowns and an urgent need for mountains, I’ll inform you that while the weather is quite normal, the following outings for one day await us:
September 15, South Ural Reserve, Nara Ridge
September 16, Mount Bakhmur and the stone river closest to Ufa
September 22, South Ural Reserve, Big Shelom Mountain
September 23, Mount Kurtash and the Blue Cliffs
September 29, South Ural Reserve, Mount Dunan Suigan
September 30, Mount Raspberry
A little about the ridge Big Bitch
The Bolshaya Suka ridge is located in the Chelyabinsk region, near the town of Bakal, extended from the southwest to the NE from the right bank of the Yuryuzan River, its length is about 20 km, most of the peaks are more than 1000 m. The highest points from north to south: 1102 m. 1139.6 m, 1080 m, 1194 m (the highest point of the Big Bitch), 1130 m, 1105 m, 1168 m, Peski (1054 m), Mal. Uval (1006.7 m).
Valery Kuznetsov:
“There are four versions of the origin of the oronim SukA.
Interpretation is derived from the Tatar “female” - “plow”, the Bashkir “female” - “hill”, “pointed top” and the Bashkir “female” - “cold”. According to another version - from the word “sukan” - “bow”. That is, SukA is an onion ridge. Indeed on the Bitch grows a lot of wild garlic, "bear onions." Yes, and on old maps the ridge is designated exactly as Sukan.
An interesting observation is given by the famous toponymist of the Urals, A.K. Matveev: "... Russian residents from the village of Tyuluk call the ridge Suka, citing the fact that there are very uncomfortable places for walking ..." I must say that this is really so. Most of the ridge is narrow rocky ridges, which now and then have to climb. ”
Throughout the ridge of the Big Bitch there are many rocks, outliers, ledges. In the southern part of the ridge there is a large tundra mountain plateau. The plateau is almost flat, offering a beautiful panoramic view of the nearby mountains.
How to get there
To get to the Siberian pass of the Bolshoi Suki ridge, you need to get to the village of Katavka. The village of Katavka was founded in 1843 by settlers from the Katav mine and Katav-Ivanovsky plant and was first called Novo-Katavskaya. The village arose along with other working villages near the developed Bakalsky mines for their maintenance. Currently, about 250 people live in the village.
From the village of Katavka you need to go east along a dirt road, gradually gaining height. The road is damp and seems to lie in a narrow, shady spruce-fir corridor. The trail is often crossed by transparent and cold streams with spring water. When the taiga is over, an open space will appear in front of you with the Kurums, freestanding quartzite remains and a clearing on one of the peaks of the Bolshaya Bitch ridge, called Lysaya. This is the Siberian Pass, located at an altitude of about 1000 m above sea level. On the pass, you can turn southwest along a barely noticeable path, passing the rocky outcrop on the Kurums on the right - Damn finger. Places on the trees are marked. Behind the rocky outlier, gradually gaining height, you can climb towards the top of B. Suk (1194m). After climbing to the top, you can return to the road to Siberia.
The village of Sibirka was founded in 1779. Included in the Satka city settlement. The name is associated with the nearby Old Siberian Highway. According to the 2010 census, 128 people lived in the village. The village is located on the left bank of the river. Malaya Satka, 32 km from the regional center, surrounded by mountain ranges Moskal, Bolshaya Suka, Uvan. Previously, the main occupation of residents was logging and charcoal burning for the Satka iron-smelting plant. After 1941, the plant’s blast furnaces were transferred to a different type of fuel; coal mining was stopped. In 1967, a power line was drawn from Bakal to the village, an eight-year school was built, which worked until 1980.
Currently, the Visit Center is located in the village national park Zyuratkul. In the vicinity of the village there are 2 tourist routes: Zyuratkul - Sibirka (20 km), Sibirka - the city of B. Uvan (12 km, radial ascent). Within 7 km are the attractions: Boiling Key and Fountain.
Valery Kuznetsov:
“It is worth noting that if you are interested in local history and ethnography, it will be very informative to communicate with old residents of the village of Katavki. Katavian dialect philologists refer to a separate dialect.
And the self-name of the Katavians is shmat. When I have to go to Katavka, I try to communicate with local grandparents with great pleasure. You will not hear such an interesting and original speech anywhere! ”
How to get to the southern part of the ridge Big Bitch?
It is convenient to reach the southern end of the ridge along the road from the city of Yuryuzan to the village of Tyulyuk, having reached the meadow where the village of Petropavlovka used to be, and from it along the old forest road and along the path up. But by the way, look for a guide.
Photo by Valery Kuznetsov and Igor Akhromenko from the Mountain Shurale group.
Big Bitch Ridge map:
View on a larger map
The Bolshaya Suka ridge runs along the Chelyabinsk region, not far from the city of Bakal, stretching from the southwest to the northwest in the upper right bank of the river. Yuryuzan, its length is about 20 km, height - over 1000 m. The most significant peaks from north to south: 1102 m, 1139.6 m, 1080 m, 1194 m (the highest point of the Big Bitch), 1130 m, 1105 m, 1168 m, Sands (1054 m), Mal. Uval (1006.7 m).
There are four versions of the origin of the oronim SukA. Interpretation is derived from the Tatar “female” - “plow”, Bashkir “female” - “hill”, “pointed top” and Bashkir “female” - “cold”. According to another version - from the word “sukan” - “bow”. That is, SukA is an onion ridge. Indeed on the Bitch grows a lot of wild garlic, "bear onions." Yes, and on old maps the ridge is designated exactly as Sukan.
An interesting observation is given by the famous toponymist of the Urals, A.K. Matveev: “... Russian residents from the village of Tyulyuk call the ridge Suka, citing the fact that there are very uncomfortable places for walking ...” I must say that this is really so. Most of the ridge is a narrow rocky ridges along which now and then have to climb.
The ridge of the Big Bitch abounds with cliffs, cliffs, ledges and steep faults. But in the northern part of it is an extensive tundra mountain plateau. Almost flat, with a beautiful panoramic view of the nearby mountains.
The ridge is interesting as a weekend object. It is convenient to combine his visit with a visit to the Fountain at the source of the Malaya Satka River, as well as the Uvan, Nurgush and Zyuratkul ranges. From the point of view of the excursion, the road going from the village of Katavka to the village of Sibirka through the pass of the shoulder of the Big Bitch is interesting. It is also called the Siberian Pass. In few places in the Southern Urals there is such a simple road to a height of a thousand meters, with the exception, probably, of the road leading to the top of Mount Dunan-Sungan. But more about that in another article. Just a couple of kilometers along the road from Katavka and climb a little from the pass along the Kurums, to the right or left.
It is worth noting that if you are interested in regional studies and ethnography, communication with old residents of the village of Katavki will be very informative. Katavian dialect philologists refer to a separate dialect.
And the self-name of the Katavians is shmat. When I have to go to Katavka, I try to communicate with local grandparents with great pleasure. You will not hear such an interesting and original speech anywhere else!
You can get to the Big Bitch on the federal highway M5 "Ural", turning from the highway to the village of Katavka, which is located under the ridge. I must say that the road itself on the pass approaches almost to the Kurums that run away from the slopes of the Big Bitch. It is convenient to reach the southern end of the ridge along the road from the city of Yuryuzan to the village of Tyulyuk, having reached the meadow where the village of Petropavlovka used to be, and from it along the old forest road and along the path up.
The name for the Russian ear is quite harmonious, if the emphasis is correct. It is put on the last syllable. The word "suki" in Bashkir means "peak", "comb". It is possible that the origin is connected with the word "syuyk" or "suuk" - "cold," icy. At the top, it’s really always not hot, but in the cold season it is completely extreme. However, there is another version of the name, from the Türkic word “su” - water, where the second syllable indicates its negation. This option also reveals the features of this corner, where in the afternoon with fire you can not find not only a stream, but also an overwhelming fontanel.
This ridge is perfectly visible from the M5 highway in the area near this highway to the city of Bakal and the suburban village of Katavka. From Katavka the most convenient place for an assault begins. A well-stuffed trail goes into the mountains from the village through the spruce taiga. Soon, it soars up quite steeply and takes tourists to the saddle of the Bolshaya Bitch ridge, to one of its most picturesque corners, where the outlier rocks are located. Among them, one is called the Bear Stone. The top view is simply mesmerizing. You can see the city of Bakal with its mining, and the Shuida ridge, aside, the cities of Yuryuzan and Trekhgorny are distinguishable.
If you cross the saddle and continue walking along the same road, then after descending from the ridge, it will lead to the famous “Boiling Key” at the source of the Malaya Satka River, and then to the no less famous fountain at the source of the Bolshaya Kalagaz River. There is equipped a place for picnics and overnight stays, there begins the ascent to the neighboring mountain - Uvan. This mountain is sometimes called the Little Bitch.
The Bolshaya Bitch ridge stretches from southwest to northeast for 27 kilometers. Its highest sections are located just from the edges, they exceed 1100 meters. The highest point is 1195 meters. Outwardly, the relief resembles an uneven sheer wall made of gray-green bricks. This is because the slopes are covered with stone rivers - Kurumniki. Their boulders are densely covered with green lichens, almost hiding the color of the rock. The stones, as a rule, are slippery and dancing underfoot, therefore it is more comfortable to climb where there are thickets of mosses and relatively rare trees between the stones. Among the stone placers, lonely spruce and birch trees grow. Often there is larch.
In winter, climbing is not easy due to deep, heavy snow, which also hides the gaps between the stones. But early winter on the rocky outlets you can admire the many bizarre icicles. They were formed from the fact that the rocks continue to give off the heat accumulated over the summer. The Bolshaya Bitch Ridge is one of the favorite places of the rector of ChSPU Vladimir Sydyrin, who grew up in these parts.
/ Weekend Travel: Katavka-Big Bitch-ThresholdsPhotos for the article: 
on the next page
there is still a photo -\u003e
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About halfway between Yuryuzan and Satka, going around the Bolshaya Suka ridge, the M5 transural road runs for many kilometers to the pass. And at its highest point, the stone rivers of kurum that flow down from the ridge through a thinning forest almost reach the asphalt of the road. Driving past this place many times, I "licked", looking at the nearby peaks. I thought that someday I need to stop and run upstairs, since they are very close. I thought and drove on, because the plans always had something else. And that would probably always have been the case, if I had once taken it and hadn’t specially come to the Bitch for the purpose of climbing.
Katavka - Big Bitch
The starting point of my trip was the ancient village of Katavka, founded near the ancient Kazan trail, it seems to be the same as in the time of the omnipotent Myasnikov and Tverdyshev and lying near the ridge.
An old forest road leads from the village to the pass. At one time they used it to communicate with Siberia lying behind two passes, as well as to export forest. And it is quite possible that it was part of the very legendary ancient Kazan (Kazan path), through which communication was made through the Big Stone in time immemorial. It’s too painful to pass here comfortable: low, smooth. And opposite it, on Nurgush, it’s just as good, leading further east.
Not far from the pass. He “reached” quickly - in about an hour. The climb ended, and the road led to the old forest - woodlands with clearings, low birches and firs. A bit ahead, on the right, due to the low trees, an outlier was peeking out, indicating a crossing point. The curly peaks, the guards of the pass, parted a little and opened the passage through the ridge. Here is the border of the forest and lifeless stone. Juniper and dwarf fir trees climb up the scree in stone scree. Interspersed in the redhead of the mountain tundra with green spots. Crooked, squat, smoothed out by constantly blowing winds. And to meet them they rush from the peaks of the gray stone rivers - Kurums - and get lost in the taiga sea.
The road, catching its breath a little, pulled the track further, towards the emerging slope to the east, going down to the Yamka tract - the hollow between the Bitch and Uvan. The distant ridge Zyuratkul with a characteristic white mark on one of the hills was clearly visible here.
He stood for some time, peering into the distance, then stepped to the side and, making his way through the undergrowth thicket, past the overburden, went to the edge of the ridge discharge. From here, the entire eastern panorama of the mountains opened up - the bulk of the relatives of Uvan and Nurgush. However, today I was not going to go there. My goal was the rugged height dominant to the right of the pass, where I planned to find a place convenient for overnight.
He regretfully left the road. Now he had to make his way through the windbreaks and curums up, past the rocky outcrops, now and then sliding off the stones overgrown with moss. The paths here, if they met, are all with claw marks. And as it was established by the strange law of animal stitches, they disappeared as unexpectedly as they appeared. But they helped to go for a while.
The views, meanwhile, were amazing. In the golden evening light, with each meter gained, the heights of the mountain approached. The hump of Uwan is already very close. There below under him hid the origins of Little Satka. From a height, it was clearly visible how my road, drawn by an arrow along the clearing, went to Moskal and the invisible Olympic cordon from here - the center of all the local trails. I must say that the Big Bitch, being the northern continuation of the powerful Zigalga Range, is located in the very center of the Southern Urals. Its name comes from the Bashkir "suuk", that is, "cold", and not what many thought. Although, as the authoritative Ural toponymist Alexander Matveev writes, the local population emphasizes the very first syllable, explaining that it is very difficult to move along the ridge. Here I completely agreed with them.
Climbing from the outlier to the outlier, I crawl out onto the next stone platform. Here it is, in full view, Big Nurgush - the highest point of the Chelyabinsk region. A huge plateau with an area of \u200b\u200bten square kilometers adjoins the stone top on the left. This place is not so often visited by tourists as Bolshoi Iremel, and on the tundra plateau many rare plants, including the golden root, have been preserved. Through the saddle between the Nurgush stepson Lukash and Bolshoi Nurgush itself passes the old Thieves trail, along which horse thieves were taken from the Satka plant to the Bashkir Trans-Urals. It was believed that if you walk along this path, you yourself will one day become a thief. This is just one of the many legends and tales that the Satka district is very rich in. However, like the entire mining Urals.
On one of the ascents he left his backpack and lunged upstairs - to catch sunset light in order to catch time to photograph something else behind the setting sun. And here it is, the sun, imperceptibly, imperceptibly, and it seems quite noticeably and quickly rolled up to the edge of a distant ridge. And I sat on the edge of the cliff, suddenly realizing that my legs did not go to the top, although there was very little left to it. But I can’t force myself to do it. I need to go back for the backpack, and then crawl up again. But that is not the point at all. I sat in silence on a cliff. Somewhere far below the track rumbled. And it seemed to me to be good and calm. But the sunset light began to play with me his usual joke. I understand one who was left alone in the evening, away from human habitation. In the evening twilight, during sunset, a wave of anxiety and loneliness rises, which just needs to be waited. Survive this hour and a half, because when the sun sets and night falls, the wave will subside. But at this very time you are ready to drop everything and run without looking back to the people. For because the feeling that embraces you is ancient, instincts are included at this time, saying very clearly: “It will be night, and if you are left alone, you are unlikely to survive until morning.” And it cannot be knocked out or corroded by anything.
I returned to the backpack. He sat still, thought, but, once again realizing that his legs were not going up and there was nothing to be done about it, and having come up with several reasoned reasons, he began to move down in the coming darkness.
Going down is always some kind of sadness. The sadness of parting with the mountain. Already descending from the pass, I turned around and saw the first brightest star rise above the summit left by me. So big, warm, shaggy. A silent peak, a silent star and its bright witching light flying through, God knows what space and time! Flashed through my head: "Heavenly nail." So like the Arabs called Sirius. And a feeling of pity appeared at the same time, too. Pity that I did not find the strength to stay and left, leaving behind a fairy tale and the sight of silent ridges.
On the way back, I did not turn on the flashlight for a long time and as a result I went the wrong way: to abandoned mowings, swamps and went to the outskirts of Katavka from a completely different direction, when night had already arrived.
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The Bitch Ridge (attempt NoneStop)
Thousands of Bitches ridge (accent on the last vowel) is admired by thousands of people every day, crossing the Ural Mountains along the M5 federal highway. Its stone curum wall, stretching over 20 kilometers along the highway, can hardly be ignored.
The location of the ridge next to the road, the possibility of rapid descent and easy entry predetermined my choice with the final object for cross-climbing in the framework of the South Ural NoneStop project.
November 1 at 7.00 in the morning, leaving the car in the forest at the foot of Maly Uval mountain, I start traverse. Wading through snipe, I reflect on the differences of this campaign from the previous ones. In the summer I go in light 200 gram Solomon sneakers, the weight of my lightweight bask Lite backpack did not exceed 8-9 kg with a 4 liter supply of water. Now I am going into the unknown, and therefore I carry on my back and legs additional equipmentable to provide me with a margin of safety in the conditions of the late South Ural autumn. I understand that there is likely to be snow above, that's just how much it is, what temperature will be at night and the strength of the wind remains a mystery. The higher I go, the more snow and at the border of 900 meters the snow cover becomes continuous. The first obstacle in my way, the city of Small Uval (1006.7) is given with difficulty. In the darkness, I wander among the towers of a stone ridge crowning the peak for a couple of kilometers: visibility 100 meters, strong wind. Sometimes windows appear in the breaks of the clouds, which inspires hope.
At the top, the depth of snow reaches 20-30 centimeters in some places, which already affects the speed of movement in a compartment with windbreaks and the unraveling of rocky labyrinths. I lose precious two hours for the first 2.5 km and climb 500 meters, which is critical in the conditions of a short 9.5 hour daylight hours.
Behind the Maly Uval mountain there is a small stretch of windbreak forest and an ascent to the highest and most kumum part of the ridge.
7 kilometers of climbs and descents on snowy Kurums. And if the ascent is relatively simple and safe, then the descent is like walking in a minefield and the smaller the stones in size, the more dangerous it is to walk along them.
Climbing and traversing the peaks of 1194.8 is easy. Under the guise of rocks and overlooking a wonderful infernal performance, I arrange a dinner.
I make myself freeze-dried pasta with cheese, adding 100 gr. raw smoked sausages. Sublimates do not cease to please me, 20 minutes and I, having eaten hot and having drunk warm water, can move on. I pass a large peak plateau quickly, but a 300-meter descent into the saddle is a lot of trouble.
I cross the Katavka-Sibirka road and go to the side of the forested peak of 1,080.1. On approaching the summit, making my way through another blockage, I understand that it wasn’t enough for me to pass the ridge before daylight, there were 2 hours of daylight, and there was a large stretch of cliffs and turmeric in front of another 7 km. It is necessary to make a decision to go in the dark or get up for the night.
What to do? On the one hand, the goal is to go through the ridge within one day, on the other hand, the understanding that I am very tired and that the movement in the dark along the snowy rocks can end very badly. The desire to spend pre-sunset time on photography also draws towards the second option. Caution prevails. After 20 kilometers, I break my bivakzak on top of a cliff under the cover of a small stone wall. Down below the cliff there were places more convenient and more sheltered from the wind, but I bring some comfort as a sacrifice of “Feng Shui places” in my palm at a glance against the background of the ridge I’ve passed and the ability to shoot the dawn without crawling out of the tent, which in winter conveniently.
A few pictures…
... and in anticipation of food and warmth I climb into the tent. It’s good that I put on winter ski boot covers with galoshes and an avisent top. Although the boots are wet but completely without snow, I put them under my head. I unpack the products, put the burner out and open the valve, gas starts to come out with a strong hiss, I strike it with a lighter and the flame covers the entire burner, the situation is dangerous, open fire at 30mot tents, I recline in the sleeping bag and is limited in movement. I’m trying to turn the burner into snow, but there’s not so much of it on the rocky shelf, the burner overturns and the fire breaks out more strongly, a blow with a hand and the burner flies down from the rock. Cursing, I crawl out of the sleeping bag in one isotherm, put on a puff, put on almost dry shoes and climb down. Rocks are not high 10 meters, but you still need to find a place for descent, and then a burner among the stones. There is a place for descent, there are no problems with the burner either, a strong smell of gas and a characteristic hiss lead directly to it. After 15 minutes I was again in the tent, the shoes were outside. I’ll take care of these two icy pieces of snow in the morning. The night passes normally, I sleep badly, a strong wind rinses the tent, a strong cough rinses me. Dawn is planned at 9.10, so at 7 o’clock I start to move towards the exit. I open the entrance, I'm in a thick cloud, the dawn will probably pass by. I cook breakfast, clean and warm between my legs, in my sleeping bag, boots. At 9.00 I begin to move. Rested and with fresh strength, I pass the peak 1139.6 quickly and easily, I just fly through the forest area, bypassing the rubble
and by 13.00 I go not the last peak of the ridge 1102.8. The weather has completely deteriorated - it is snowing. I decide to go on the M5, since the road is 3 km from me, I clearly hear the hum of cars. After 4 hours, using the help of 3 cars and after 10 km on foot along the road, I get to the start point.
Total total distance along the ridge was 27 kilometers.
Of the new equipment I tested my Palm kayaking neoprene mittens. The test results were extremely pleased. A great way to keep your hands warm in the presence of hanging humidity and wind, if necessary, often perform delicate work, such as photographing. Thanks to the cutouts on the palms, you can use your fingers in a matter of fractions of a second and hide them just as quickly, while neoprene, in turn, perfectly retains heat in the wet state without allowing your hand to freeze.